Patio/Driveway Colouring & Restoration

1. The Surface Has To Be Clean And Sound First

Colour won't take evenly over dirt, algae, old sealant or loose debris. The surface needs a proper clean first — that's a separate job (patio/driveway power washing) — with enough drying time afterward that it's completely dry before colouring starts. Any cracks or damage are best addressed at this stage too, since colour applied over a crack just highlights it rather than hiding it.

2. Joints And Pointing Have To Be Sound Before Colour Goes Down

Loose, cracked or missing joints show through a colour finish the same way a crack does, so this gets checked and fixed as part of prep, not left for later. What's needed depends on the surface:

• Slabs and natural stone are pointed — the gaps between them filled with a jointing compound, or a mortar mix with SBR added to help it bond and stay flexible rather than cracking out.
• Block paving is finished with sand, not pointing — kiln-dried jointing sand swept into the gaps between blocks, usually with a sand stabiliser added or applied afterward so it binds and doesn't just wash or sweep back out over time. Sanding only needs redoing where the existing joints have washed out or gone low — it's not always a from-scratch job.

3. Choosing The Finish

A few options depending on what's there and what's wanted:

• Matching the existing colour, bringing a faded surface back close to its original shade.
• A single coat refresh over an already-coloured surface.
• A full two-coat application on natural, uncoloured concrete or paving, for a genuine colour change.
• Two different colours on one job — picking out a border or pattern separately from the main area.

Coloured surfaces can generally only be matched to a similar existing shade — a dramatic colour change or going lighter on top of an existing colour usually isn't realistic; that's really only achievable starting from a natural, uncoloured surface.

4. Application

The colouring product goes down evenly, worked in sections to avoid overlap lines or patchy coverage. Coverage time and drying time depend on job size and weather — bigger areas and damp conditions both push out the time needed before a second coat or before the area can be used again.

5. Sealing

Once the colour is down, it needs a sealcoat over the top — sealing is what actually stops the colour fading and wearing back off. This is the same sealing process used on any concrete, block paving or slabbed surface, and it's worth doing properly rather than skipping it: an unsealed colour job fades far faster than a sealed one.

6. Curing And Aftercare

Freshly coloured and sealed surfaces need time to cure before normal use — walking on it too soon, or driving on it before it's fully cured, can mark the finish. Once cured, it holds up to normal weather and traffic the same as any other properly sealed surface.