Driveway & Patio Cleaning
Proper power washing for concrete, natural slabs and block paving — done to the surface it actually is, not blasted the same way regardless.
What the difference looks like
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How proper driveway & patio cleaning actually works
A driveway or patio doesn't get dirty overnight, and it shouldn't get "cleaned" overnight either. Here's what a job done properly involves.
Reading the surface before touching it
Concrete, natural slabs, and block paving aren't the same material, and they don't get treated the same way. Concrete can generally take a firmer approach. Slabs, especially older or softer stone, need lower pressure and more care around the edges to avoid scarring or pitting the surface. Block paving has sand-filled joints between the blocks — blast those out carelessly and you're left with wobbly blocks and weeds moving in within a season. A proper job starts with identifying what's underfoot and adjusting pressure, nozzle, and technique accordingly.
Clearing and protecting the area
Anything moveable — planters, bins, furniture, door mats — comes off the surface first. Nearby plants, especially anything not tolerant of run-off, get protected or worked around. Air vents, low sockets, and timber features close to the cleaning area are also worth flagging before any water goes down, not after.
Dealing with what's actually causing the problem
Black staining on a driveway usually isn't just dirt — it's algae, moss, and lichen, and it's growing into the surface, not just sitting on top of it. Blasting it with water alone knocks the visible growth off but leaves the roots and spores behind, which is why a driveway pressure-washed without any treatment often looks dirty again within months. A proper job applies a biocide treatment either before or as part of the wash to actually kill that growth, not just displace it. Oil stains, rust marks, and other localised staining usually need a separate, targeted pre-treatment too — pressure alone won't shift them.
The wash itself
Working in overlapping, consistent passes — usually top to bottom or working from the least-affected area toward the worst — avoids leaving stripe marks or patches where pressure was held too long in one spot. On block paving, this means working with the direction of the joints, not blasting straight down onto them. On slabs, edges and corners get special attention since that's where pressure damage and over-cleaning marks are most likely to show. The right nozzle angle and standoff distance from the surface matters more than raw pressure — more power isn't automatically a better clean, and can do real damage on the wrong material.
Rinsing and letting it dry properly
A final clean-water rinse clears loosened dirt, algae residue, and any cleaning product off the surface and out of the joints, rather than leaving it to dry back down and re-settle. The surface then needs time to dry out fully before anything else happens to it — sealing or staining applied to a still-damp surface won't bond properly and can trap moisture underneath, which causes problems later.
What comes after cleaning
A freshly cleaned surface is at its most vulnerable to staining and regrowth in the weeks right after the wash — it's clean, open, and ready to soak things up. This is exactly the point at which sealing makes the most sense, since a sealcoat locks in the clean finish and gives new stains and organic growth something to sit on top of rather than sink into. That said, sealing is a separate, specifically-priced service in its own right, not something automatically included in a driveway or patio wash — whether it's worth adding depends on the surface, its age, and what the customer wants.
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